Completing the Base
A short video on shaping the tapered base using hand planes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWNo0QpAh9Q&ab_channel=DerekCohen
Moving now to fitting the parts together …
I have
always found gluing up far more stressful than cutting the parts and
planing them to fit precisely. My fear is always that something will
move and the result will be a mis-match of parts. The additional
concern is that the joinery may not be strong enough, and that my
insistence on not over-designing joinery will prove that I am a
hopeless amateur.
An important feature of the
mortise-and-loose-tenon joinery is ensuring that the tenon does not
move. Glue alone may suffice, but I have added 3/8" diameter
pegs or dowels. Now I recently purchased a dowel maker on Temu for
the grand sum of $19 AUD. How good could this be? Well, in short, it
is pretty damn good, to my surprise.
But
it would be the wrong way to make pegs/dowels for these joints. That
jig make great dowels for filling holes, but for pegging tenons you
need grain that does not have run out, is straight and strong. This
means making pegs from rived stock. This was then pounded through a
LN dowel plate ....
The
peg holes had already been drilled in the base and upright, as shown
previously. The loose tenons were glued into the bases and upper
stretchers (but not the vertical stretcher yet). Now the holes were
extended through the tenons ...
...
the excess sawn off ...
...
and the stubs sanded away ...
Sanding
is the better choice here of using a chisel since the dust will fill
any gaps in the pegged holes. Just add glue and sand flush.
Once
the base and upper stretchers are complete, the vertical stretcher
can be glued and clamped, first to the base ...
...
and then the upper stretcher is added ...
While
clamping all together, the level is checked to be parallel. This was
found to be within 0.05 degree. Happy with this.
The loose
tenons for the cross stretcher are sawn for wedges ...
The
tenon is shaped for later ...
The
wedges are sawn roughly to shape, and then planed to match each other
using a simple fixture made for the purpose ...
Before
the cross stretcher is glued, the underside of the bases are given
protective pads (made from “Crubber”). These raise the ends about
2mm, ensuring both stability on the floor as well as a non-slip
...
Finally,
the cross stretchers are added and the ends clamped together
...
Attention
and time was given to ensuring all was perfectly square, and remained
so once clamped up ...
The
first coat of Whittle Evolution hard wax oil (Classic) was rubbed on.
A second coat was added a day later. The colours in this Jarrah just
popped out ...
Returning
to the design of this trestle table base, the aim was to build
something to meld with the DC 09 chairs I built. How have we done?
Keep in mind that the table top will be Rock Maple.
The
elliptical sections of the trestle base hopefully match the legs and
arms of the chairs ...
Regards
from Perth
Derek
September 2024