Entry hall table for a niece: Part 11
It's
time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design
calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being
broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped
drawers".
There are two ways to do this. The easy way
is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to
the front of a box ...
The
hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires
rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the
side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ...
I've
chosen the high road (sigh).
Today I spent my time
preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the
original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this
will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around
280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm
deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that
dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do.
The
wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request),
while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak
(which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter
sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in
appearance and hardness.
I have a bunch of narrower
boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued
together two to get the height needed ...
No
clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls
the edges together.
This
is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ...
The
drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick ..... I cannot go
metric here as my plough blade is imperial ....
this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only
two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the
drawer) ...
Same
trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat.
This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will
remain in the cauls until thn.
The
narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip
added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also
adds extra width as a runner.
The slips are made with a
plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to
plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead
- the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting
up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun,
making these slips was a quick process ...
First plough
the bead ...
A
tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David
Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it
is gone, the bead is complete ...
Now
flip the board around to plane the groove ...
The first
line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There
will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to
support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over
12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep
groove.
As
mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane
...
...
and then rip off the slip on the table saw.
This
is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side
...
I
have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align
with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will
hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective
measurements to their drawer fronts.
First order of the
day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between
the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like
...
The
table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will
get the final dimension ...
On
to the all-important drawer fronts!
I was heartened that
all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one
(if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half)
...
This
meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the
shooting board.
Set one, mark the angle with a small
sliding bevel ...
...
transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting
board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the
needed angle ...
A
good result ...
This
is the join I need to manage ...
These
are the fronts fitted in sequence ...
And
here were are now, waiting for the next build day ...
Regards
from Perth
Derek
February 2020