Sliding Dovetails by hand
There are a couple of different ways to construct sliding dovetails. In the small wardrobe I am currently building, the construction relies for strength on through dovetails on the upper ends and a panel with sliding dovetails at the lower ends. For this reason, the sliding dovetails run the full width of the sides, rather than only have a short dovetail opening into a dado.
I have been forming these dovetails this way for a few years now, and looked to find the easiest, quickest method. The construction of these sliding dovetails is documented below.
Step 1 – use a dovetail plane to form the tails.
I stop planing when the side wall angle reaches the outer edge. This is the same width as the board.
Step 2 – Mark out the upper line of the sliding dovetail using a panel gauge.
Step 3 – Mark out the depth of the pin (taken from the tail)
Step 5 – Measure the width of the tail base
Step 6 – Transfer this to the cutting line
Step 7 - use a saw gauge for the pin (this one has a ratio of 1:6)
I prefer using a mitre saw. Its length helps keep the cut straight. It is also easier to maintain a constant depth of cut. This saw is 11 ppi crosscut. It is slow but creates a clean line.
Hold the saw blade firmly against the fence …
It is an easy fix if you do wander slightly under the line (see later).
This is what you are aiming for – a cut as close to the line as possible …
The finished saw cuts …
Step 8 – remove the waste …
... first with a chisel …
Then I use a router plane with a narrow blade …
… and finally smooth off the surface with a wider blade …
Step 9 – Tune the width to fit the tail board.
You can use a side rabbet plane for this. I have a variety: LN, Veritas and Stanley.
For this work my preference is the Stanley #79, and use it with a guide block/fence (also angled at 1:6) …
The final pin section …
Step 10 – a dry fit.
Final planing will take place when the cabinet is assembled.
Regards from Perth
Derek
September 2009