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Galoot Smoother II




A few years ago I built a BU infill smoother out of a Stanley #3. With all the various smoothers at my disposal, including some rather special and expensive planes, I often find myself returning time and again to this little smoother. It is simply wonderful and utterly reliable ...

The original article is
here.

I managed to grab a couple of hours today for the workshop as Lynndy's rellies (Oz-speak for visiting family) decided to spend the day shopping (with Lynndy in tow).

I started work on the drawer for the armoire, and was smoothing down the front board ...



.. when I decided that it was time to make the modifications I had been thinking about for a couple of years.

I never liked the looks of the plane - too boxy.



And the 5/32” (about 4mm) thick blade, although 1 ¾” wide like the original #3, lacked the support of the #3's frog and so was a sloppy fit. And lastly, it was OK to hold, but not great.

I wanted a rounded profile, side set screws for the blade, and a more comfortable grip.

I finished it up just as I was called in for dinner. Tomorrow I will replace the screws in the lever cap (so don't give me a hard time about those!).


This is what I came up with.












The next day …

I set about making screws for the lever cap. The process is the same as I followed for the set screws …


Take a brass screw of the size and thread of choice (making sure you have the same size tap for it), and saw a slot at the end. Smooth this on a disk sander and cut to length.


Then tap the hole …



Here are the various pieces of the plane ..


Blade Cap


The blade cap (not sure what to call this piece) provides a comfortable rest for one hand. I inserted a brass $2 coin to act as a rest for the lever cap screw, which would otherwise destroy it.



The blade and lever cap were described in Version 1. Above also are the screws that were made.


Adding the set screws was done this way ..


Firstly, here is the bed ..


Secondly, place the blade on the bed and mark off the upper edges with a scratch awl ..



Thirdly, position the outside mark from the inside this way …


Now you can drill the cast iron in preparation for tapping a screw.


I was asked about the way the plane is held. Below is the rear hand hold …



And here is the front hand hold ..



A few new pictures with the new lever cap screws …







And, of course, what does the mouth look like? Well it is very small – although with a 60 degree cutting angle this is really unnecessary.



So … does the plane make nice shavings?

I honed the blade, and these were the first that were produced (on a very interlocked piece of Tasmanian Oak) …





Regards from Perth

Derek

January 2010